Free Embroidery Designs

I am wanting to get a machine and need to start small but I want something that can grow with my needs. I’ve seen where you can buy appliques for machines and am not sure what all that involves. Are there certain machines that you can buy extra patterns? for? And to the cheaper ones not do as much? I’ve seen some that look like a sewing machine with an extra attachment and others that almost look like small factory equipment.

An embroidery machine has a few built-in designs. Others can be downloaded from the Internet. Some are free and others are for sale. Some are 100% embroidery and others are applique done in the embroidery hoop.

The one I usually recommend is the Brother SE 400. Right now everyone seems to be out of stock until mid-February. This is online. Your local Walmart may have this model in stock.

Visit a Brother sewing machine dealer and ask for a demo. They may have a model that is close in price to the SE 400, which is a combo (sewing and embroidery machine) or one that they have taken in on a trade-up.

It would be best to buy from a dealer even though you will be paying a little bit more (Walmart and Amazon have the SE 400 for around $400). With the dealer you will have access to lessons as well as assistance and service for the machine when necessary.

Machine applique designs come with an instruction PDF that will give you fabric and thread colors; indicate when to place the fabric on the stabilizer and when to trim for the next step. Each section of the fabric is sewn in place with a running stitch and then finished with a satin stitch.

If this is a priority, ask if it can be included in the demo.

This site may add further insight as to what can be done and how to do it – http://www.emblibrary.com/EL/elprojects/holder.aspx?page=techniques

I have a janome machine and want to create my own lace design. I really want to do my own. Does anyone use Embird or some other program? How hard is it to do?

I use the Digitizer10000 software that Janome sells. I know you can do some digitizing with Embird, but I don’t know how.
The steps I take in D10K are:
1. Scan the design (I draw out my designs first)
2. First layer is straight line embroidery, no satin stitch. This keeps the design in place. This is done in color 1.
3. Satin stitch the design over the straight lines. Do this in color 2.
4. Satin stitch again, with a stitch slight wider than before, starting and stopping in different places. Do this in color 3.
5. Finally, satin stitch one more time right over #4 (color3). Do this in color 4.
6. Stitch it out and fine tune as needed.
I use the different colors so I can tell which layer needs adjusting. I have made some where the stitches in the satin lines get closer (tighter) with each layer. For testing purposes, I keep the different colors and stitch out using netting between Solvy. I have found that if my design is weak and needs a lot of help that the netting keeps it all together – very important the first test stitch!
From there, I tweak the design as needed. Once I like how it stitches out, I change all the colors to one so the machine doesn’t stop between layers anymore. I save multiple copies as I work.
Laces can be time consuming to digitize. I have created two small lace pieces but I prefer to purchase the designs.
Good luck!

Again, that program is called Digitizer10000. Sold by Janome dealers. There is a new version, DigitizerPro that has some wonderful features, including the ability to digitize any TrueType font you have on your computer. Cool! And it can digitize photos, too. Still one color, but my local dealer said the programmers are working on color!

Satin stitchand#151;Bring the needle up to the right side of the cloth on
one side of the outline. Insert the needle on the opposite side of the outline.
Bring the needle under the fabric to return to the starting edge. Repeat the sequence
to create a smooth row of even, side-by-side stitches. This stitch fills in a
design with rows of straight or slanted stitches across a small, outlined area.
Its a very easy stitch to learn.
Seed Stitch is a filling stitch made up of short stitches scattered
randomly but evenly.
Eye stitchand#151;which is also known as eyelet stitch is made using the
same construction principle as Algerian stitch.

This stitch is simple to work as can be seen in the diagram you simply work
a straight stitch into central hole.

The trick is to create neat central hole. In order to do this be sure that when
you insert the needle into the fabric that the needle is taken down in the center
and reappears through the fabric on the outside of the square. If you want to
make the holes larger with each stitch pull the thread slightly so that the
fabric distorts slightly as it this tensioning action that creates the holes
in the center of each stitch. If you want larger holes again, work on linen
or a fabric that is used for pulled and drawn thread work and use a stiletto
or a fine knitting needle to further define the hole.
Shadow stitchand#151;On the right side, this stitch resembles two rows
of backstitch and on the wrong side the catch stitch. Slant the needle the same
as if making a catch stitch, make a single back stitch, first on the lower side
and then diagonally across on the upper side. Work this stitch on transparent
material so the crossing of threads show through to right side. This stitch
is often called herringbone stitch when crosses are worked on right side.
Chain Stitchand#151;Bring thread to right side of material, hold thread
toward you with left thumb, take a stitch into same hole where thread was brought
up, forming a small loop. Do not pull thread tightly. Bring needle out a short
distance forward and over the loop. Make a second loop overlapping the first
one. Continue along marked line.
Bullion stitchand#151;Bring your needle up (in point 1 lets say) pulling
the thread until taught. Hold the thread in your left hand, thumb and index
towards where the thread came up. (reverse if you are left handed)

Now poke the needle back into the fabric about 1cm away (or however long you
want the bullion to be) – point 2. Dont pull the thread all of the way through
yet.

Bring the needle up again part way at point 1. With needle half in half out
of the hole, wrap the thread around the needle several times. (enough times
to equal the distance between the two points.)

Poke the needle back into point 2, with your left hand hold the needle and coils
against the fabric, while carefully sliding the needle out of point 1 and into
point 2. Once the needle is all the way through keep holding the coils against
the fabric until you have pulled the excess thread all the way through.

This is a stitch which really requires quite a bit of practise so work on a
scrap fabric for a while first.
Stem Stitch or Outlineand#151; This stitch is worked from left to right.
Bring needle up through fabric to right side on the line to be outlined. Holding
the thread toward you as shown (or the thread may be swung to the left away
from you), take a short slanting back stitch along stamped line. Make the next
and each successive stitch from right to left and bring the needle out to the
left at the end of previous stitch. Repeat along Line, keeping stitches small
and uniform.
Straight stitchand#151;are made of single isolated stitches. This stitch
can be worked in a regular or irregular manner, in a uniform or varying size.
Single satin stitch is simple to work, with the only concern being that the
stitches should not be too long or too loose. Contrasting threads adds interest
particularly when worked in a free manner at different angles. Straight stitch
is often used to illustrate grass and other landscape details.
Lazy Daisy Stitchand#151;Bring needle up at inner point of petal, hold
thread toward you. Thrust needle down at inner point of petal, 1 or 2 threads
to right of point where thread emerges; bring point of needle out at outer end
of petal, going over thread. Draw loop up to cover petal, thrust needle down
outside of loop to fasten it in place. Bring needle out at inner point of next
petal to left or right.
French knotand#151;Bring the thread out at the required position, hold
the thread down where it emerges with the left thumb and encircle the thread
twice with the needle (see 1). Still holding the thread firmly with your thumb,
twist the needle back to the starting point and insert it close to where the
thread first emerged (not in the exact place or it will simply pull back through).
Pull the needle through to the back, leaving a small knot on the surface, as
shown, or pass on to the position of the next stitch as at 2.

Satin stitchand#151;Bring the needle up to the right side of the cloth on
one side of the outline. Insert the needle on the opposite side of the outline.
Bring the needle under the fabric to return to the starting edge. Repeat the sequence
to create a smooth row of even, side-by-side stitches. This stitch fills in a
design with rows of straight or slanted stitches across a small, outlined area.
Its a very easy stitch to learn.
Seed Stitch is a filling stitch made up of short stitches scattered
randomly but evenly.
Eye stitchand#151;which is also known as eyelet stitch is made using the
same construction principle as Algerian stitch.

This stitch is simple to work as can be seen in the diagram you simply work
a straight stitch into central hole.

The trick is to create neat central hole. In order to do this be sure that when
you insert the needle into the fabric that the needle is taken down in the center
and reappears through the fabric on the outside of the square. If you want to
make the holes larger with each stitch pull the thread slightly so that the
fabric distorts slightly as it this tensioning action that creates the holes
in the center of each stitch. If you want larger holes again, work on linen
or a fabric that is used for pulled and drawn thread work and use a stiletto
or a fine knitting needle to further define the hole.
Shadow stitchand#151;On the right side, this stitch resembles two rows
of backstitch and on the wrong side the catch stitch. Slant the needle the same
as if making a catch stitch, make a single back stitch, first on the lower side
and then diagonally across on the upper side. Work this stitch on transparent
material so the crossing of threads show through to right side. This stitch
is often called herringbone stitch when crosses are worked on right side.
Chain Stitchand#151;Bring thread to right side of material, hold thread
toward you with left thumb, take a stitch into same hole where thread was brought
up, forming a small loop. Do not pull thread tightly. Bring needle out a short
distance forward and over the loop. Make a second loop overlapping the first
one. Continue along marked line.
Bullion stitchand#151;Bring your needle up (in point 1 lets say) pulling
the thread until taught. Hold the thread in your left hand, thumb and index
towards where the thread came up. (reverse if you are left handed)

Now poke the needle back into the fabric about 1cm away (or however long you
want the bullion to be) – point 2. Dont pull the thread all of the way through
yet.

Bring the needle up again part way at point 1. With needle half in half out
of the hole, wrap the thread around the needle several times. (enough times
to equal the distance between the two points.)

Poke the needle back into point 2, with your left hand hold the needle and coils
against the fabric, while carefully sliding the needle out of point 1 and into
point 2. Once the needle is all the way through keep holding the coils against
the fabric until you have pulled the excess thread all the way through.

This is a stitch which really requires quite a bit of practise so work on a
scrap fabric for a while first.
Stem Stitch or Outlineand#151; This stitch is worked from left to right.
Bring needle up through fabric to right side on the line to be outlined. Holding
the thread toward you as shown (or the thread may be swung to the left away
from you), take a short slanting back stitch along stamped line. Make the next
and each successive stitch from right to left and bring the needle out to the
left at the end of previous stitch. Repeat along Line, keeping stitches small
and uniform.
Straight stitchand#151;are made of single isolated stitches. This stitch
can be worked in a regular or irregular manner, in a uniform or varying size.
Single satin stitch is simple to work, with the only concern being that the
stitches should not be too long or too loose. Contrasting threads adds interest
particularly when worked in a free manner at different angles. Straight stitch
is often used to illustrate grass and other landscape details.
Lazy Daisy Stitchand#151;Bring needle up at inner point of petal, hold
thread toward you. Thrust needle down at inner point of petal, 1 or 2 threads
to right of point where thread emerges; bring point of needle out at outer end
of petal, going over thread. Draw loop up to cover petal, thrust needle down
outside of loop to fasten it in place. Bring needle out at inner point of next
petal to left or right.
French knotand#151;Bring the thread out at the required position, hold
the thread down where it emerges with the left thumb and encircle the thread
twice with the needle (see 1). Still holding the thread firmly with your thumb,
twist the needle back to the starting point and insert it close to where the
thread first emerged (not in the exact place or it will simply pull back through).
Pull the needle through to the back, leaving a small knot on the surface, as
shown, or pass on to the position of the next stitch as at 2.