Free Embroidery Designs

Shadow embroidery is a technique that creates mysterious shadow effect on the stitched cloth. It is also known as a Whitework technique. Shadow embroidery is done on dress accessories, childrens clothes, lingerie and household linens.

The procedure of making shadow embroidery may sound confusing for the first time, but actually it is extremely easy-to-make. The stitch is worked on sheer, transparent or firmly woven threads. For the ground fabric you may choose whatever you like: viole, batiste, fine linen or muslin, synthetic or sheer silk and so on. Ready made clothes can also be embroidered with the shadow effect stitches. There are few things you have to learn about shadow embroidery. Work double back stitch on the right side of the fabric.

On the reverse side of the cloth will be gradually formed a herringbone stitch. These herringbone stitches make for the shadow effect. Another thing is closeness of the stitches. If the stitches are close to one another, a deeper shadow is produced. If they are not so close together, a lacy effect appears on the right side. Tiny separate stitches follow the lace as an outline. Best for producing shadow effect are silk or cotton yarns. You can also use one ply of embroidery floss, and a number 7 or less crewel needle with a hoop. Colours can be stronger if you add extra plies to the fibers. Here are two examples of using shadow embroidery to create something beautiful.

1) How to embroider a flower using shadow stitches Stems are made with fine back chain stitches on the right side of the fabric. To create the centre of the flower, around which the petals are, use French knot clusters on the right side. Petals and leaves should have an outline, filled up with shadow stitches. Use green for the colours of stems and leaves. Petals can have any colour. You can add white floss on the white canvas for some details and gain fantastic results. When choosing a design, use transfer patterns or make up something yours. Stitch on the wrong side of sheer material and examine the effects of shadow embroidery on the right side.

2) How can you make a small pillow or a cushion using shadow embroidery To create a pillow you need the following materials: number 7 or finer crewel needle, two 9 inch squares of sheer fabric, plain muslin, embroidery hoop, embroidery floss, dressmakers carbon paper or hot iron transfer pencil, one yard ruffled lace, matching thread, and small quantity of polyester fiberfill.

The design you want to embroider has to be transferred on the wrong side of the pillow top with the usage of hot iron transfer pencil. Then it is time to put fabric in the embroidery hoop. If, for example, you want to embroider a flower, follow the Number 1 suggestions, using French knot for the centre and shadow stitching for the petals. Close herringbone stitch is just perfect for making flowers. The ruffled lace should be stitched around the perimeter of pillow top. With a seam you should stitch together pillow top and bottom sides. Make sure you leave one side unseamed for the pillow filler to place inside. Trim the three sides and the corners. The muslin and polyester fiberfill can serve as fillers. Sachets of potpourri can also be put inside before seaming the fourth side of the pillow.

Before trying onto larger areas, practice shadow embroidery on smaller surfaces, such as pockets, belts, hats and so on. Be careful when using the iron for covering up minor creases on collars, belts and other smaller areas. It may ruin the shadow embroidery.

Satin stitchand#151;Bring the needle up to the right side of the cloth on
one side of the outline. Insert the needle on the opposite side of the outline.
Bring the needle under the fabric to return to the starting edge. Repeat the sequence
to create a smooth row of even, side-by-side stitches. This stitch fills in a
design with rows of straight or slanted stitches across a small, outlined area.
Its a very easy stitch to learn.
Seed Stitch is a filling stitch made up of short stitches scattered
randomly but evenly.
Eye stitchand#151;which is also known as eyelet stitch is made using the
same construction principle as Algerian stitch.

This stitch is simple to work as can be seen in the diagram you simply work
a straight stitch into central hole.

The trick is to create neat central hole. In order to do this be sure that when
you insert the needle into the fabric that the needle is taken down in the center
and reappears through the fabric on the outside of the square. If you want to
make the holes larger with each stitch pull the thread slightly so that the
fabric distorts slightly as it this tensioning action that creates the holes
in the center of each stitch. If you want larger holes again, work on linen
or a fabric that is used for pulled and drawn thread work and use a stiletto
or a fine knitting needle to further define the hole.
Shadow stitchand#151;On the right side, this stitch resembles two rows
of backstitch and on the wrong side the catch stitch. Slant the needle the same
as if making a catch stitch, make a single back stitch, first on the lower side
and then diagonally across on the upper side. Work this stitch on transparent
material so the crossing of threads show through to right side. This stitch
is often called herringbone stitch when crosses are worked on right side.
Chain Stitchand#151;Bring thread to right side of material, hold thread
toward you with left thumb, take a stitch into same hole where thread was brought
up, forming a small loop. Do not pull thread tightly. Bring needle out a short
distance forward and over the loop. Make a second loop overlapping the first
one. Continue along marked line.
Bullion stitchand#151;Bring your needle up (in point 1 lets say) pulling
the thread until taught. Hold the thread in your left hand, thumb and index
towards where the thread came up. (reverse if you are left handed)

Now poke the needle back into the fabric about 1cm away (or however long you
want the bullion to be) – point 2. Dont pull the thread all of the way through
yet.

Bring the needle up again part way at point 1. With needle half in half out
of the hole, wrap the thread around the needle several times. (enough times
to equal the distance between the two points.)

Poke the needle back into point 2, with your left hand hold the needle and coils
against the fabric, while carefully sliding the needle out of point 1 and into
point 2. Once the needle is all the way through keep holding the coils against
the fabric until you have pulled the excess thread all the way through.

This is a stitch which really requires quite a bit of practise so work on a
scrap fabric for a while first.
Stem Stitch or Outlineand#151; This stitch is worked from left to right.
Bring needle up through fabric to right side on the line to be outlined. Holding
the thread toward you as shown (or the thread may be swung to the left away
from you), take a short slanting back stitch along stamped line. Make the next
and each successive stitch from right to left and bring the needle out to the
left at the end of previous stitch. Repeat along Line, keeping stitches small
and uniform.
Straight stitchand#151;are made of single isolated stitches. This stitch
can be worked in a regular or irregular manner, in a uniform or varying size.
Single satin stitch is simple to work, with the only concern being that the
stitches should not be too long or too loose. Contrasting threads adds interest
particularly when worked in a free manner at different angles. Straight stitch
is often used to illustrate grass and other landscape details.
Lazy Daisy Stitchand#151;Bring needle up at inner point of petal, hold
thread toward you. Thrust needle down at inner point of petal, 1 or 2 threads
to right of point where thread emerges; bring point of needle out at outer end
of petal, going over thread. Draw loop up to cover petal, thrust needle down
outside of loop to fasten it in place. Bring needle out at inner point of next
petal to left or right.
French knotand#151;Bring the thread out at the required position, hold
the thread down where it emerges with the left thumb and encircle the thread
twice with the needle (see 1). Still holding the thread firmly with your thumb,
twist the needle back to the starting point and insert it close to where the
thread first emerged (not in the exact place or it will simply pull back through).
Pull the needle through to the back, leaving a small knot on the surface, as
shown, or pass on to the position of the next stitch as at 2.

Satin stitchand#151;Bring the needle up to the right side of the cloth on
one side of the outline. Insert the needle on the opposite side of the outline.
Bring the needle under the fabric to return to the starting edge. Repeat the sequence
to create a smooth row of even, side-by-side stitches. This stitch fills in a
design with rows of straight or slanted stitches across a small, outlined area.
Its a very easy stitch to learn.
Seed Stitch is a filling stitch made up of short stitches scattered
randomly but evenly.
Eye stitchand#151;which is also known as eyelet stitch is made using the
same construction principle as Algerian stitch.

This stitch is simple to work as can be seen in the diagram you simply work
a straight stitch into central hole.

The trick is to create neat central hole. In order to do this be sure that when
you insert the needle into the fabric that the needle is taken down in the center
and reappears through the fabric on the outside of the square. If you want to
make the holes larger with each stitch pull the thread slightly so that the
fabric distorts slightly as it this tensioning action that creates the holes
in the center of each stitch. If you want larger holes again, work on linen
or a fabric that is used for pulled and drawn thread work and use a stiletto
or a fine knitting needle to further define the hole.
Shadow stitchand#151;On the right side, this stitch resembles two rows
of backstitch and on the wrong side the catch stitch. Slant the needle the same
as if making a catch stitch, make a single back stitch, first on the lower side
and then diagonally across on the upper side. Work this stitch on transparent
material so the crossing of threads show through to right side. This stitch
is often called herringbone stitch when crosses are worked on right side.
Chain Stitchand#151;Bring thread to right side of material, hold thread
toward you with left thumb, take a stitch into same hole where thread was brought
up, forming a small loop. Do not pull thread tightly. Bring needle out a short
distance forward and over the loop. Make a second loop overlapping the first
one. Continue along marked line.
Bullion stitchand#151;Bring your needle up (in point 1 lets say) pulling
the thread until taught. Hold the thread in your left hand, thumb and index
towards where the thread came up. (reverse if you are left handed)

Now poke the needle back into the fabric about 1cm away (or however long you
want the bullion to be) – point 2. Dont pull the thread all of the way through
yet.

Bring the needle up again part way at point 1. With needle half in half out
of the hole, wrap the thread around the needle several times. (enough times
to equal the distance between the two points.)

Poke the needle back into point 2, with your left hand hold the needle and coils
against the fabric, while carefully sliding the needle out of point 1 and into
point 2. Once the needle is all the way through keep holding the coils against
the fabric until you have pulled the excess thread all the way through.

This is a stitch which really requires quite a bit of practise so work on a
scrap fabric for a while first.
Stem Stitch or Outlineand#151; This stitch is worked from left to right.
Bring needle up through fabric to right side on the line to be outlined. Holding
the thread toward you as shown (or the thread may be swung to the left away
from you), take a short slanting back stitch along stamped line. Make the next
and each successive stitch from right to left and bring the needle out to the
left at the end of previous stitch. Repeat along Line, keeping stitches small
and uniform.
Straight stitchand#151;are made of single isolated stitches. This stitch
can be worked in a regular or irregular manner, in a uniform or varying size.
Single satin stitch is simple to work, with the only concern being that the
stitches should not be too long or too loose. Contrasting threads adds interest
particularly when worked in a free manner at different angles. Straight stitch
is often used to illustrate grass and other landscape details.
Lazy Daisy Stitchand#151;Bring needle up at inner point of petal, hold
thread toward you. Thrust needle down at inner point of petal, 1 or 2 threads
to right of point where thread emerges; bring point of needle out at outer end
of petal, going over thread. Draw loop up to cover petal, thrust needle down
outside of loop to fasten it in place. Bring needle out at inner point of next
petal to left or right.
French knotand#151;Bring the thread out at the required position, hold
the thread down where it emerges with the left thumb and encircle the thread
twice with the needle (see 1). Still holding the thread firmly with your thumb,
twist the needle back to the starting point and insert it close to where the
thread first emerged (not in the exact place or it will simply pull back through).
Pull the needle through to the back, leaving a small knot on the surface, as
shown, or pass on to the position of the next stitch as at 2.