download free embroidery designs
free embroidery designs
free embroidery designs download
Duration : 0:1:38
Watch Nancy as she shows you all the embroidery designs included in the Exotic Orchids Embroidery Designs Collection. She also shares several ideas of how to use these beautiful designs. Brought to you by Nancy’s Notions. http://www.nancysnotions.com/
Duration : 0:2:12
I am researching Marie Antoinette and 18th century fashion for my textiles A level.
I know that Toile de Jouy was very popular, does anyone know ways i could recreate this??
Also goldwork – i.e. using the gold metal threads. but i dont know how to do this. is it easy to try/copy?
any other suggestions of how i could recreate techiniques? i would be really grateful. thanks
I should have a shufti at the Costume department at the Victoria & Albert Museum – there isn’t much that they don’t have. If toile de jouy is the printed pictures technique (?) have you considered actually making a picture on a piece of muslin/light cotton by actually drawing and using a textile marker or just paint with watercolour and a fine brush? For the gold metal threads – get a book of basic embroidery stitches out of the library and some gold thread (any haberdashery shop with a good thread selection will have it). I got mine from John Lewis and it wasn’t expensive. Practise basic stitches and do a simple pattern. You’ll also be able to get a book on goldwork from the library.
I’ve been knitting nice big squares to make a blanket. The yarn I’m using is all different shades of bright green and I wanted to use purple to connect them. I don’t want to hide the purple color and thought a blanket stitch would work perfectly. Can I use a blanket stitch to connect pieces? How do you do it? Any help would be great!
No a blanket stitch is for going aroundappliquee or around the edge of the blanket, not for connecting two squares. Check out your library for embroidery and knitting books for examples ofstitchess that would work
I’m new to sewing, and I don’t know what sort of things I should watch for when buying a machine. I also don’t know what kind of price I should expect to pay if I want something that’s good enough to last me a long time, but doesn’t have gadgets I don’t need.
I hope to use it to work with cotton and linen primarily if that helps.
Thanks!
http://www.cet.com/~pennys/faq/smfaq.htm
If you’re on a budget, I’d suggest a good used machine — the cheapest new machines are often unrepairable, and are so persnickity about adjustments that they can be incredibly frustrating. I’d really sooner see you with a machine with some scuffs and nicks and only a few stitches that won’t frustrate you. When you outgrow the machine, you can always trade it in or keep it as a backup machine.
Things I want for a beginner to have in a machine:
— very good straightstitch
— good zigzag — 4 mm is plenty wide enough for most purposes.
— a method of making buttonholes that isn’t frustrating (automatic buttonholers are easier than 1 steps are easier than 4 steps, are easier than buttonhole attachments like the old Greist attachments — however, the Greists made very nice (though limited sizes) of buttonholes)
— adjustable presser foot pressure
Nice to have, but can be lived without:
— three step zigzag (great for elastic application)
— blindhem and stretch blindhem stitches (saves hours!)
— a few decorative stitches (just for fun)
If you’ve got the budget, I’d suggest considering an electronic machine — they don’t stall at slow sewing speeds the way many mechanicals will, and they sew very nicely.
I’d also send you to a real sewing machine shop… several, if possible. Tell them your budget, that you’re a beginner, and ease of use and quality is more important than all the bells and whistles. Ask to see machines in your price range, and also ask to try a couple of good quality machines outside your price range so you can see differences in quality of stitching and ease of use. (Elna, Viking, Pfaff, Bernina…) — not the embroidery machines, ask to try one they might sell to a picky person who has a separate embroidery machine.
There are quite a number of pre-loved machines around, many of which are sitting on shelves in repair shops, taken in on trade, overhauled, and ready for a new person. There can be some excellent values there.
Always ask (new or used) who will service the machine, what the turnaround time usually is, availability of parts, can it be done locally, or will warranty service require it to be shipped off elsewhere.
Suggested reading:
John Giordano: Sewing Machine Book
Carol Ahles: Fine Machine Sewing (especially the first and last few chapters on care and feeding and selection of sewing machines — also skim the chapters on hemming.
Gale Grigg Hazen: Owner’s Guide to Sewing Machines, Sergers, and Knitting Machines
Your local library is likely to have both books on the shelf.
I’m new to sewing and don’t know too much about it & the machines, but I’m looking for something that will let me do different fonts and adjust the size of the stitching. Hoping for something that’s no more than $400.. Would Amazon or perhaps Walmart sell ones like this? Thanks
There are two major methods of machine embroidery — free motion, where you guide the hooped fabric, and can be done on any sewing machine, and computerized, which requires a special machine. I do some free motion embroidery — here’s sort of the great grandfather of textbooks of machine embroidery. free motion on a treadle machine: http://archive.org/details/singerinstructio00sing and the best modern book I know of: http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Book-Machine-Embroidery-Creative/dp/0801976480/ref=ntt_at_ep_dpt_1 done just before embroidery machines became commonly available to home sewing.
The other method is computerized embroidery, and there are several types of machines there: combination sewing/embroidery machines like http://www.bernina.com/en-US/Products-us/BERNINA-products-us/BERNINA-Sewing-and-Embroidery-Machines-us/BERNINA-8-Series-us/BERNINA-en (this one was a mere $12.5K when it was first released) or more reasonably, http://www.amazon.com/Brother-SE400-Combination-Computerized-Embroidery/dp/B003AVMZA4/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1359239253&sr=1-1 and embroidery only machines like: http://www.amazon.com/Brother-PE770-Embroidery-Memory-Stick-Compatibility/dp/B002MQI2NM/ref=sr_1_2?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1359239253&sr=1-2 or a multihead (many needles at a time) machine like: http://in.bernina.com/product_detail-n3-i258-sIN.html which sews many colors at the same time, and is typically used by an embroidery business.
Most of the people I know who do computerized machine embroidery have started with a 4×4" hoop combination machine, then discovered that 1) they wanted a bigger hoop and 2) if they didn’t have another machine, they couldn’t sew while the machine was laboriously stitching out a design. The folks I know who bought embroidery only machines plus a sewing machine didn’t pay much more (if any) than the ones who bought a single combination machine, and most of them seem happier with their initial purpose.
On top of the machine, you usually wind up buying several types and weights of embroidery stabilizer, perhaps a digitizing program so you can make your own designs, another program to help convert predigitized designs into a format your machine can use, and thread. Lots and lots of threads. So the machine is only the tip of the iceberg.
If you can, see if you can find a basic machine embroidery class where they supply the machines. There’s a fairly steep learning curve at first, I understand, and see if it’s something you really want to invest in. Me? I’m happier doing embroidery by hand.
I am a beginner but I’d really like to get it right by buying the right type of machine (for delicate materials and basic materials like cotton to make bras etc.)
Would a serger be better? I’m a bit clueless but I’m determined to learn.
Thanks in advance to anyone who answers,
A serger is very helpful for jobs like attaching elastic and sewing covered seams, but you’ll still need a good sewing machine too. The one you’re looking for for lingerie will have adjustable stitch length and width, adjustable presser foot pressure, and will sew well with size 8/60 sewing machine needles — take a pack each of microtex points and stretch points along when you’re testing, as well as common lingerie fabrics like batiste, silk charmeuse, and stretch satin. I’d also suggest you look carefully at electronic machines because of the fine control they offer compared to mechanicals. But mechanical machines will certainly work for lingerie.
Suggested reading:
Jan Bones: Lingerie Secrets
Karen Morris: Sewing Lingerie that Fits
Kwik Sew’s Beautiful Lingerie
Singer Sewing Library’s Sewing Lingerie
Otherwise, here’s my standard beginner sewing machine advice, all of which is also applicable to you:
http://www.cet.com/~pennys/faq/smfaq.htm
What I want for beginners in sewing:
– a machine that doesn’t scare you
– a machine that isn’t balky (cheap new machines are often very
balky or need adjustments often and are rarely repairable —
just too frustrating to learn on!)
– very good straight stitch
– good zigzag (4-5 mm is fine, more than that is gravy)
– a method of making buttonholes that makes sense to you
– adjustable presser foot pressure (which helps some fabric
handling issues)
– accessory presser feet that don’t cost an arm and a leg
(machines that use a "short shank foot" typically handle
generic presser feet pretty well. Some brands of machines use
proprietary or very expensive presser feet)
If the budget stretches far enough:
– blindhem and stretch blindhem stitches
– triple zigzag (nice for elastic applications)
– a couple of decorative stitches (you won’t use them nearly as
much as you think)
– electronic machine because of the needle position control and
because the stepper motors give you full "punching force" at
slow sewing speeds — mechanical machines often will stall at
slow speeds.
Please go to the best sewing machine dealers around and ask them
to show you some machines in your price range, *especially* used
machines you can afford. You’ll get a far better machine buying
used than new, and a good dealer is worth their weight in sewing
machine needles when you get a machine problem — often they can
talk you through the problem over the phone. While you’re trying
things out, try a couple of machines (sewing only, not combo
sewing-embroidery) over your price limit, just so you can see
what the difference in stitch quality and ease of use might be.
You may find you want to go for the used Cadillac. Or you might
want the new basic Chevy. Might as well try both out.
Suggested reading: John Giordano’s The Sewing Machine Book
(especially for used machines), Carol Ahles’ Fine Machine Sewing
(especially the first and last few chapters) and Gale Grigg
Hazen’s Owner’s Guide to Sewing Machines, Sergers and Knitting
Machines. All of these are likely to be available at your public
library.
Used brands I’d particularly look for: Elna, Bernina,
Viking/Husqvarna, Pfaff, Singer (pre 1970), Juki, Toyota
New "bargain brand" I’d probably pick: Janome (who also does
Kenmore).
I just want to buy a simple basic sewing machine under $100 to hem my pants.
I don’t need it to do any fancy needlework. All I need is to hem my pant legs. Can anyone recommend me any brands?
Thanks alot!
If you’re going to hem pants with a straight stitched-through hem (like jeans), any decent straight stitcher will do. I typically find old Singer 99s and 15s around for $0-20 that just need cleaning, oil and a new needle.
If you want to do a more professional looking hem, such as is used on dress pants, you want a machine with a "blind hem stitch" (and ask for it to be demonstrated for you).
Or you’re going to learn to hem by hand… takes very little time and
costs you a packet of hand sewing machine needles — less than $1.
With a budget of $100, you’re either going to be going for a used machine or a new one that is not going to last long or be repairable.
My standard beginner sewing machine advice:
http://www.cet.com/~pennys/faq/smfaq.htm
What I want for beginners in sewing:
– a machine that doesn’t scare you
– a machine that isn’t balky (cheap new machines are often very
balky or need adjustments often and are rarely repairable —
just too frustrating to learn on!)
– very good straight stitch
– good zigzag (4-5 mm is fine, more than that is gravy)
– a method of making buttonholes that makes sense to you
– adjustable presser foot pressure (which helps some fabric
handling issues)
– accessory presser feet that don’t cost an arm and a leg
(machines that use a "short shank foot" typically handle
generic presser feet pretty well. Some brands of machines use
proprietary or very expensive presser feet)
If the budget stretches far enough:
– blindhem and stretch blindhem stitches
– triple zigzag (nice for elastic applications)
– a couple of decorative stitches (you won’t use them nearly as
much as you think)
– electronic machine because of the needle position control and
because the stepper motors give you full "punching force" at
slow sewing speeds — mechanical machines often will stall at
slow speeds.
Please go to the best sewing machine dealers around and ask them
to show you some machines in your price range, *especially* used
machines you can afford. You’ll get a far better machine buying
used than new, and a good dealer is worth their weight in sewing
machine needles when you get a machine problem — often they can
talk you through the problem over the phone. While you’re trying
things out, try a couple of machines (sewing only, not combo
sewing-embroidery) over your price limit, just so you can see
what the difference in stitch quality and ease of use might be.
You may find you want to go for the used Cadillac. Or you might
want the new basic Chevy. Might as well try both out.
Suggested reading: John Giordano’s The Sewing Machine Book
(especially for used machines), Carol Ahles’ Fine Machine Sewing
(especially the first and last few chapters) and Gale Grigg
Hazen’s Owner’s Guide to Sewing Machines, Sergers and Knitting
Machines. All of these are likely to be available at your public
library.
Used brands I’d particularly look for: Elna, Bernina,
Viking/Husqvarna, Pfaff, Singer (pre 1970), Juki, Toyota
New "bargain brand" I’d probably pick: Janome (who also does
Kenmore).
Hai,
I want to buy a embroidery machine . but not sure which brand / design no to buy. bcas i was learning from one of my friend to stitch chudidars ( in normal tailoring machine-singer) and hand embroidery . my husband is asking me to buy embroidery machine. will it be easy to follow the manuals if i buy those machine?????? can i see a video demo in any web-site for operating machine embroidering machines . so that i can be sure to buy which model & company. otherwise it will be waste to buy with out knowing how to operate. I am living in U.A.E.
plz write me ur suggestions , if possible the web-site names where i can learn online how to operate & learn to do the designs using machines…..Awaiting for all of ur replies………
I have a Singer Futura CE-200. It is my first embroidery machine and I am very pleased. It was low-cost, mainly because it does not have a computer on board. You hook it to your computer and it will stitch what is on the screen. It was very easy for me to learn, and the software will convert designs in many formats. This allows you to download a lot of free designs from the internet. The main disadvantage is the size of the hoops. The largest one has a stitch area of about 5" X 7". This means in large designs you have to re-hoop. Hope this helps.
I am looking for a small sewing machine that I can use to do repairs (hems and such) and sew small items like cat toys. I don’t want anything really fancy or expensive, but I DO want it to work well! Does anyone have any recommendations?
Ask your local sewing machine dealers about what they’ve got in used machines.
http://www.cet.com/~pennys/faq/smfaq.htm
What I want for beginners in sewing:
– a machine that doesn’t scare you
– a machine that isn’t balky (cheap new machines are often very
balky or need adjustments often and are rarely repairable —
just too frustrating to learn on!)
– very good straight stitch
– good zigzag (4-5 mm is fine, more than that is gravy)
– a method of making buttonholes that makes sense to you
– adjustable presser foot pressure (which helps some fabric
handling issues)
– accessory presser feet that don’t cost an arm and a leg
(machines that use a "short shank foot" typically handle
generic presser feet pretty well. Some brands of machines use
proprietary or very expensive presser feet)
If the budget stretches far enough:
– blindhem and stretch blindhem stitches
– triple zigzag (nice for elastic applications)
– a couple of decorative stitches (you won’t use them nearly as
much as you think)
– electronic machine because of the needle position control and
because the stepper motors give you full "punching force" at
slow sewing speeds — mechanical machines often will stall at
slow speeds.
Please go to the best sewing machine dealers around and ask them
to show you some machines in your price range, *especially* used
machines you can afford. You’ll get a far better machine buying
used than new, and a good dealer is worth their weight in sewing
machine needles when you get a machine problem — often they can
talk you through the problem over the phone. While you’re trying
things out, try a couple of machines (sewing only, not combo
sewing-embroidery) over your price limit, just so you can see
what the difference in stitch quality and ease of use might be.
You may find you want to go for the used Cadillac. Or you might
want the new basic Chevy. Might as well try both out.
Suggested reading: John Giordano’s The Sewing Machine Book
(especially for used machines), Carol Ahles’ Fine Machine Sewing
(especially the first and last few chapters) and Gale Grigg
Hazen’s Owner’s Guide to Sewing Machines, Sergers and Knitting
Machines. All of these are likely to be available at your public
library.
Used brands I’d particularly look for: Elna, Bernina,
Viking/Husqvarna, Pfaff, Singer (pre 1970), Juki, Toyota
New "bargain brand" I’d probably pick: Janome (who also does
Kenmore).
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