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Posts Tagged ‘Straight Stitch’

Can you do quilting with a Baby Lock Ellegante embroidery machine?

December 23rd, 2012 2 comments


Do you mean free motion quilting? I have an Ellegante, too. You drop the feed dogs, put on the darning foot, have your machine set on straight stitch, then start quilting. It involves eye-hand coordination. The faster you run the machine, the faster you have to move the fabric. Soon you’ll be making nice, even stitches, but it does take practice. Mark your quilt with stencils or follow the designs in the fabric. You have complete control of the fabric "sandwich" in this way. I use temp adhesive spray to hold layers together.
You also can use the walking foot for SID or echo quilting. I teach from the Better Homes and Gardens "Teach Yourself to Quilt" book. There are many books available on the subject
There are many emb. quilting designs available for quilting "in the hoop". I never hoop the quilt; I use Aqua Magic Plus (TM)-(there are other brands, too) and stick my quilt to it. You hoop the AM+, then use a pin to score the paper and then tear the paper off exposing the sticky surface. I then use the hoop’s plastic placement grid to center the block then sew it out. It’s water soluable and merely washes off the back when you’re done quilting. You can quilt in "sections". See the book "Divide and Conquer" by Smith & Milligan.
You have an awesome machine and I hope you have support nearby. My nearby dealer retired and closed her store. Now I’d have to drive over 2 hours for instruction. Support your local dealer!

What kind of sewing machine to get?

December 5th, 2012 3 comments

Trying to decide what kind of sewing machine to get. I’m essentially a beginner, interested in quilting, making stuffed animals, and clothing. I’ve gotten conflicting advice regarding computerized vs mechanical machines.

I’ve had people tell me I need a computerized machine that has all the bells and whistles and embroidery and stuff

Others have said I need a good used mechanical machine that will have fewer functions but be more durable.

Any input or recommendations would be appreciated.

http://www.cet.com/~pennys/faq/smfaq.htm

What I want for beginners in sewing:

– a machine that doesn’t scare you
– a machine that isn’t balky (cheap new machines are often very
balky or need adjustments often and are rarely repairable —
just too frustrating to learn on!)
– very good straight stitch
– good zigzag (4-5 mm is fine, more than that is gravy)
– a method of making buttonholes that makes sense to you
– adjustable presser foot pressure (which helps some fabric
handling issues)
– accessory presser feet that don’t cost an arm and a leg
(machines that use a "short shank foot" typically handle
generic presser feet pretty well. Some brands of machines use
proprietary or very expensive presser feet)

If the budget stretches far enough:

– blindhem and stretch blindhem stitches
– triple zigzag (nice for elastic applications)
– a couple of decorative stitches (you won’t use them nearly as
much as you think)
– electronic machine because of the needle position control and
because the stepper motors give you full "punching force" at
slow sewing speeds — mechanical machines often will stall at
slow speeds.

Please go to the best sewing machine dealers around and ask them
to show you some machines in your price range, *especially* used
machines you can afford. You’ll get a far better machine buying
used than new, and a good dealer is worth their weight in sewing
machine needles when you get a machine problem — often they can
talk you through the problem over the phone. While you’re trying
things out, try a couple of machines (sewing only, not combo
sewing-embroidery) over your price limit, just so you can see
what the difference in stitch quality and ease of use might be.
You may find you want to go for the used Cadillac. Or you might
want the new basic Chevy. Might as well try both out.

Suggested reading: John Giordano’s The Sewing Machine Book
(especially for used machines), Carol Ahles’ Fine Machine Sewing
(especially the first and last few chapters) and Gale Grigg
Hazen’s Owner’s Guide to Sewing Machines, Sergers and Knitting
Machines. All of these are likely to be available at your public
library.

Used brands I’d particularly look for: Elna, Bernina,
Viking/Husqvarna, Pfaff, Singer (pre 1970), Juki, Toyota

New "bargain brand" I’d probably pick: Janome (who also does
Kenmore).

Can a home sewing machine work as efficiently as a industrial machine?

November 29th, 2012 2 comments

I’m a student and i work primarily on a tabletop juki machine. They are very fast and i can get allot done in very little time. But I’m going to be moving soon and i will need a machine that can complete all different types of garments at a relatively fast pace.
Can I complete the same in of work at the same pace with a home sewing machine?

Thanks for the help.

Yes, and no. There are a few models of home machines that are designed for pros and do work at a faster speed than others. Janome produces a professional model, the MC6600P machine that sews 1200 stitches a minute straight stitch. The el-cheapo machine at wal mart or Target…not so fast. Or as reliable. if you are used to the speed and the stitch quality offered by a fast machine then the majority of the home machines will be far too slow and you’ll be waiting for the machine to catch up to you.

Since you do so much sewing the professional model is a much better investment. It looks like a home machine on the outside, but inside it has the speed and stitch quality that a professional advanced sewer needs. It will complete a wide variety of garments quickly and efficiently. It has lots of utility stitches and a good variety of decorative stitches too. It doesn’t do pre-programmed hooped embroidery -which is a good thing! You can do free motion embroidery easily. It is a table top home machine with the motor and head in one unit.

If you wish to buy an industrial machine that does a variety of stitches then the Bernina 950 is a good machine. It is a true industrial meaning the table, motor and head are separate. It offers 14 stitches and a semi automatic buttonhole.

Here are the two machines:
http://www.berninausa.com/product_detail-n2-i223-sUS.html and in it’s price for purchase with table, motor, and head: http://www.allbrands.com/products/abp00796-0070.html
The Janome worthy of your talents: http://www.janome.com/index.cfm/Machines/Sewing-Quilting/MC6600P

I have several industrials and I find many home machines far too slow. I run home machines at a "pedal to the metal" speed and I find the Janome is the closest to industrial speed. Most domestic home machines, even the expensive brands, don’t have the same level of speed that a pro is accustomed to. Hope that helped a bit.

What is your most beloved sewing-plus-embroidery machine yet?

November 27th, 2012 2 comments

My mother has always wanted one of those. She doesn’t have a business or anything but she likes making crafts at home–curtains, shirts, pillows, etc., and she’s quite advanced at sewing. What machine do you reccomend for her to get? She’s got a budget though, so nothing TOO pricey, please!

Does she have a sewing machine she likes currently? If so, I’d suggest she think about an embroidery only machine to supplement it. That way she can still sew while she’s waiting for the design to stitch out.

Or consider taking up free motion embroidery, which can be done on any straight stitch sewing machine…
here’s a simple sample: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tcy2dse68M and a more complex one:
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3833/video-manuels-free-motion-embroidery-technique
and some information on bobbin work, using heavier threads and embroidering "upside down":
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/5025/bobbin-work-when-threads-are-too-thick-for-the-needle

Suggested reading on free motion embroidery: Robbie & Tony Fanning’s Complete Book of Machine Embroidery, and any of the many editions of Singer Instructions for Art Embroidery (the originals were all done on straight stitch treadles, ca. 1910)

Then head to a sewing machine dealer and try some of the machines… and check the prices of supplies, too… if she’s on a tight budget, the supplies may be a significant factor in costs.

What is the best machine for quilting and embroidery? freemotion work?

November 13th, 2012 9 comments

would like to know what machine would allow me to do free motion work: a quilting machine or embroidery machine? and what make model and year is the easiest to use with the most space also sews different directions besides forward and reverse.
i see that a singer 15-91 can be used for freemotion work?
has anyone used this machine for that or embroidery?
is there a machine that will do both ?

A Bernina 730E … Sews in 16 different directions. Includes the BSR (stitch regulator) for even stitches (straight or zig zag) when doing free motion. Beautiful embroidery and applique. Huge variety of built-in stitches, up to 9mm wide. Truly, a Dream Machine! Wish I could afford one … I have a 440 QEE model, it has the BSR but only straight stitch. I also have the embroidery unit (optional) but have to use it attached to my laptop. The 630, 640 and 730 have the embriodery software built in to the machine. The 440 is still wonderful to sew and quilt on. Nothing sews like a Bernina! (The only premium European brand still made in Switzerland by the original family-owned company. Viking and Pfaff are now owned by Singer and made in Asia.)

How do I do embroidery with a sewing machine? Is it possible?

November 11th, 2012 7 comments

I have a ton of excess denim from making a purse out of my friends never woren jeans she got rid of. Now I decided to make a bracelet with embroidery… how do I do it with a sewing machine? Also, have any other ideas on what to do with the scraps?

Sure, you can do free-motion embroidery with any machine. You need to drop the feed dogs or cover them in order to do it, but that’s easily accomplished. Best beginning book I know of is Robbie and Tony Fanning’s Complete Book of Machine Embroidery — you’ll probably have to get it from your library, as I believe it’s now out of print. Want to knock your socks off? Check to see if your library has a copy of Singer Instructions for Art Embroidery — everything in the book was done on a straight stitch treadle machine, and it’s gorgeous.

Here’s a professional free-motion embroiderer at work:
http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/tvt032.asp

Aunt Martha\x27s Hot Iron Transfers

July 19th, 2011 No comments

Satin stitchand#151;Bring the needle up to the right side of the cloth on
one side of the outline. Insert the needle on the opposite side of the outline.
Bring the needle under the fabric to return to the starting edge. Repeat the sequence
to create a smooth row of even, side-by-side stitches. This stitch fills in a
design with rows of straight or slanted stitches across a small, outlined area.
Its a very easy stitch to learn.
Seed Stitch is a filling stitch made up of short stitches scattered
randomly but evenly.
Eye stitchand#151;which is also known as eyelet stitch is made using the
same construction principle as Algerian stitch.

This stitch is simple to work as can be seen in the diagram you simply work
a straight stitch into central hole.

The trick is to create neat central hole. In order to do this be sure that when
you insert the needle into the fabric that the needle is taken down in the center
and reappears through the fabric on the outside of the square. If you want to
make the holes larger with each stitch pull the thread slightly so that the
fabric distorts slightly as it this tensioning action that creates the holes
in the center of each stitch. If you want larger holes again, work on linen
or a fabric that is used for pulled and drawn thread work and use a stiletto
or a fine knitting needle to further define the hole.
Shadow stitchand#151;On the right side, this stitch resembles two rows
of backstitch and on the wrong side the catch stitch. Slant the needle the same
as if making a catch stitch, make a single back stitch, first on the lower side
and then diagonally across on the upper side. Work this stitch on transparent
material so the crossing of threads show through to right side. This stitch
is often called herringbone stitch when crosses are worked on right side.
Chain Stitchand#151;Bring thread to right side of material, hold thread
toward you with left thumb, take a stitch into same hole where thread was brought
up, forming a small loop. Do not pull thread tightly. Bring needle out a short
distance forward and over the loop. Make a second loop overlapping the first
one. Continue along marked line.
Bullion stitchand#151;Bring your needle up (in point 1 lets say) pulling
the thread until taught. Hold the thread in your left hand, thumb and index
towards where the thread came up. (reverse if you are left handed)

Now poke the needle back into the fabric about 1cm away (or however long you
want the bullion to be) – point 2. Dont pull the thread all of the way through
yet.

Bring the needle up again part way at point 1. With needle half in half out
of the hole, wrap the thread around the needle several times. (enough times
to equal the distance between the two points.)

Poke the needle back into point 2, with your left hand hold the needle and coils
against the fabric, while carefully sliding the needle out of point 1 and into
point 2. Once the needle is all the way through keep holding the coils against
the fabric until you have pulled the excess thread all the way through.

This is a stitch which really requires quite a bit of practise so work on a
scrap fabric for a while first.
Stem Stitch or Outlineand#151; This stitch is worked from left to right.
Bring needle up through fabric to right side on the line to be outlined. Holding
the thread toward you as shown (or the thread may be swung to the left away
from you), take a short slanting back stitch along stamped line. Make the next
and each successive stitch from right to left and bring the needle out to the
left at the end of previous stitch. Repeat along Line, keeping stitches small
and uniform.
Straight stitchand#151;are made of single isolated stitches. This stitch
can be worked in a regular or irregular manner, in a uniform or varying size.
Single satin stitch is simple to work, with the only concern being that the
stitches should not be too long or too loose. Contrasting threads adds interest
particularly when worked in a free manner at different angles. Straight stitch
is often used to illustrate grass and other landscape details.
Lazy Daisy Stitchand#151;Bring needle up at inner point of petal, hold
thread toward you. Thrust needle down at inner point of petal, 1 or 2 threads
to right of point where thread emerges; bring point of needle out at outer end
of petal, going over thread. Draw loop up to cover petal, thrust needle down
outside of loop to fasten it in place. Bring needle out at inner point of next
petal to left or right.
French knotand#151;Bring the thread out at the required position, hold
the thread down where it emerges with the left thumb and encircle the thread
twice with the needle (see 1). Still holding the thread firmly with your thumb,
twist the needle back to the starting point and insert it close to where the
thread first emerged (not in the exact place or it will simply pull back through).
Pull the needle through to the back, leaving a small knot on the surface, as
shown, or pass on to the position of the next stitch as at 2.

Free Vintage Hand Embroidery Designs

July 19th, 2011 No comments

Satin stitchand#151;Bring the needle up to the right side of the cloth on
one side of the outline. Insert the needle on the opposite side of the outline.
Bring the needle under the fabric to return to the starting edge. Repeat the sequence
to create a smooth row of even, side-by-side stitches. This stitch fills in a
design with rows of straight or slanted stitches across a small, outlined area.
Its a very easy stitch to learn.
Seed Stitch is a filling stitch made up of short stitches scattered
randomly but evenly.
Eye stitchand#151;which is also known as eyelet stitch is made using the
same construction principle as Algerian stitch.

This stitch is simple to work as can be seen in the diagram you simply work
a straight stitch into central hole.

The trick is to create neat central hole. In order to do this be sure that when
you insert the needle into the fabric that the needle is taken down in the center
and reappears through the fabric on the outside of the square. If you want to
make the holes larger with each stitch pull the thread slightly so that the
fabric distorts slightly as it this tensioning action that creates the holes
in the center of each stitch. If you want larger holes again, work on linen
or a fabric that is used for pulled and drawn thread work and use a stiletto
or a fine knitting needle to further define the hole.
Shadow stitchand#151;On the right side, this stitch resembles two rows
of backstitch and on the wrong side the catch stitch. Slant the needle the same
as if making a catch stitch, make a single back stitch, first on the lower side
and then diagonally across on the upper side. Work this stitch on transparent
material so the crossing of threads show through to right side. This stitch
is often called herringbone stitch when crosses are worked on right side.
Chain Stitchand#151;Bring thread to right side of material, hold thread
toward you with left thumb, take a stitch into same hole where thread was brought
up, forming a small loop. Do not pull thread tightly. Bring needle out a short
distance forward and over the loop. Make a second loop overlapping the first
one. Continue along marked line.
Bullion stitchand#151;Bring your needle up (in point 1 lets say) pulling
the thread until taught. Hold the thread in your left hand, thumb and index
towards where the thread came up. (reverse if you are left handed)

Now poke the needle back into the fabric about 1cm away (or however long you
want the bullion to be) – point 2. Dont pull the thread all of the way through
yet.

Bring the needle up again part way at point 1. With needle half in half out
of the hole, wrap the thread around the needle several times. (enough times
to equal the distance between the two points.)

Poke the needle back into point 2, with your left hand hold the needle and coils
against the fabric, while carefully sliding the needle out of point 1 and into
point 2. Once the needle is all the way through keep holding the coils against
the fabric until you have pulled the excess thread all the way through.

This is a stitch which really requires quite a bit of practise so work on a
scrap fabric for a while first.
Stem Stitch or Outlineand#151; This stitch is worked from left to right.
Bring needle up through fabric to right side on the line to be outlined. Holding
the thread toward you as shown (or the thread may be swung to the left away
from you), take a short slanting back stitch along stamped line. Make the next
and each successive stitch from right to left and bring the needle out to the
left at the end of previous stitch. Repeat along Line, keeping stitches small
and uniform.
Straight stitchand#151;are made of single isolated stitches. This stitch
can be worked in a regular or irregular manner, in a uniform or varying size.
Single satin stitch is simple to work, with the only concern being that the
stitches should not be too long or too loose. Contrasting threads adds interest
particularly when worked in a free manner at different angles. Straight stitch
is often used to illustrate grass and other landscape details.
Lazy Daisy Stitchand#151;Bring needle up at inner point of petal, hold
thread toward you. Thrust needle down at inner point of petal, 1 or 2 threads
to right of point where thread emerges; bring point of needle out at outer end
of petal, going over thread. Draw loop up to cover petal, thrust needle down
outside of loop to fasten it in place. Bring needle out at inner point of next
petal to left or right.
French knotand#151;Bring the thread out at the required position, hold
the thread down where it emerges with the left thumb and encircle the thread
twice with the needle (see 1). Still holding the thread firmly with your thumb,
twist the needle back to the starting point and insert it close to where the
thread first emerged (not in the exact place or it will simply pull back through).
Pull the needle through to the back, leaving a small knot on the surface, as
shown, or pass on to the position of the next stitch as at 2.