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Posts Tagged ‘machine embroidery’

Question about the Brother SE400 Computerized Embroidery and Sewing Machine?

December 5th, 2012 2 comments

Does this embroidery machine work with HUS, PES, and DST formats?

PES.

If you already have designs in the other formats, they can be converted by using Pulse Ambassador (a free download).

What is the best type of embroidery machine to use?

December 5th, 2012 1 comment

I am willing to buy one, but I’m not sure which one i would like to buy. Any suggestions?? I dont care what price range it is either.

I can’t tell you the ‘best’ one to use but I can offer you some guidance, of sorts.

You need to also think about what kind of designs you intend to do. Can you use the small 4×4 stitching area or can you afford a couple of hundred more to move on up to a 5×7 stitching area? Personally, I wish I’d waited and saved to get the 5×7 stitching area for my first machine.

Ok, after you ‘ve decided what size stitching area you want You’ll need to decide which machine.
Before deciding on a machine, you need to determine what you plan to do with it. Will it be a work horse that never stops, or do you think it may be something you tire of quickly? ( Honestly, machine embroidery is ADDICTING so I don’t see that second option happening.)
Ok, when you’ve narrowed down to a couple of machines you think you’d like, look at what you’ll need to use them. For example. I bought my brother embroidery machine blindly having no clue what I’d need. After it was delivered, I found out that to transfer designs from my computer to the machine, I’d have to have a ped basic and design card.
Some machines use a flash drive, some need cd’s, others still use floppy disks, and some can hook directly up to your computer. You need to find out what you’ll need before you buy the machine.
After you find a machine you want you’ll also have to buy supplies. You’ll need all of these things before even stitching your 1st project.

Thread – lots and lots of thread (i recommend anna bove collections)
an assortment of embroidery needles (depending on your fabric and stabilizer, you could need a different size needle for each project)
Stabilizers – everyone has their favorites and you will too. To start I’d recommend a good water soluble stabilizer, a light mesh stabilizer, and a heavier stabilizer.

Before getting anything – even the machine – I’d recommend joining and online forum. You can join for free at www.sewforum.com or you can join a subscription site like www.artisticthreadworks.com. I learned sooooo much from the people at artisticthreadworks that I would recommend you join before buying the machine. The people there will answer any question.
I also recommend www.nitasplace.com. The forum is less busy – more advanced stitchers i guess – but they will ALWAYS stop to answer a question.

I know I didn’t directly answer your question, but I didnt want you to think it was as easy as just picking up a machine. If you have any questions, you’re welcome to email me at jdlindseyembroidery@yahoo.com

I’m would like to start sewing but I need to know a decent & affordable sewing machine to buy. Any suggestions?

December 3rd, 2012 3 comments

I want to learn how to sew. i want do be able to make dresses for my two little girls and start selling some I make but first I need a sewing machine. I saw a Singer Futura CE-150 Sewing and Embroidery Machine at walmart because I would also like to embroider but costs $539 and I cannot afford that. Does anyone have any suggestions on a good sewing machine.

For embroidery, consider learning to do free motion embroidery on a sewing machine… any sewing machine will do. Here’s a pro working — though his setup is a little easier, it’s the same idea:
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3833/video-manuels-free-motion-embroidery-technique
And something less fancy: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8hFRab26BE

As far as a sewing machine, I’d definitely suggest you want to get a model with a blindhem stitch… otherwise my basic suggestions are below. Please note that using a home sewing machine for business voids the warranty (they’re not meant for the duty cycle of sewing for a business), and that as soon as you learn the basic machine operation, I’m going to strongly suggest that you want to borrow Carol Ahles’ book, Fine Machine Sewing, from the library and at least learn her methods of machine blindhemming — it’ll save you lots and lots of time.

If you truly are going to use home machines to make stuff to sell, I’d buy a basic sewing machine (see below) and a decent 4 thread serger ASAP. Add computerized embroidery to that if you wish later.

My basic beginner sewing machine rant:
Take a look at Kate Dicey’s essay on choosing sewing machines at
http://www.katedicey.co.uk (and take a look around at her site…
there are a lot of nice little tutorials there!). The FAQ she
refers to is at http://preview.tinyurl.com/l5rzu6 now.

What I want for beginners in sewing:

– a machine that doesn’t scare you

– a machine that isn’t balky (cheap new machines are often very
balky or need adjustments often and are rarely repairable — just
too frustrating to learn on!)

– very good straight stitch

– good zigzag (4-5 mm is fine, more than that is gravy)

– a method of making buttonholes that makes sense to you

– adjustable presser foot pressure (which helps some fabric
handling issues)

– accessory presser feet that don’t cost an arm and a leg
(machines that use a "short shank foot" typically handle generic
presser feet pretty well. Some brands of machines use proprietary
or very expensive presser feet)

If the budget stretches far enough:

– blindhem and stretch blindhem stitches

– triple zigzag (nice for elastic applications)

– a couple of decorative stitches (you won’t use them nearly as
much as you think)

– electronic machine because of the needle position control and
because the stepper motors give you full "punching force" at
slow sewing speeds — mechanical machines often will stall at
slow speeds.

Please go to the best sewing machine dealers around and ask them
to show you some machines in your price range, *especially* used
machines you can afford. You’ll get a far better machine at a
specific price buying used than new and a good dealer is worth
their weight in sewing machine needles when you get a machine
problem — often they can talk you through the problem over the
phone. While you’re trying things out, try a couple of machines
(sewing only, not combo sewing-embroidery) over your price limit,
just so you can see what the difference in stitch quality and
ease of use might be. You may find you want to go for the used
Cadillac. Or you might want the new basic Chevy. Might as well
try both out.

Suggested reading: John Giordano’s The Sewing Machine Book
(especially for used machines), Carol Ahles’ Fine Machine Sewing
(especially the first and last few chapters) and Gale Grigg
Hazen’s Owner’s Guide to Sewing Machines, Sergers and Knitting
Machines. All of these are likely to be available at your public
library.

Used brands I’d particularly look for: Elna, Bernina,
Viking/Husqvarna, Pfaff, Singer (pre 1970), Juki, Toyota

New "bargain brand" I’d probably pick, if new, decent and budget
was my choice: Janome (who also does Kenmore).

I am buying an embroidery machine, will you share your experience and help me out?

December 3rd, 2012 4 comments

What I want to use it for is monogramming and small pictures. I am sure that once I get more experience I would like certain options, but all the information on the websites is a bit baffling. Can you tell me from your experience which machine(s) I should be looking at? Thanks for your time!!

I have a Viking embroidery machine and LOVE it.
I have downloaded many designs for free on the internet that have sewn out beautifully.

Buy your machine at a good sewing machine store. They will have free classes on how to use your machine. Take as many classes on embroidery as you can. There are so many tips and tricks to learn that make it easier to embroider. You need to know what type of thread to use in both upper and in the bobbin, hooping, stabilizers, needles. I took classes at the store and at sewing conventions. If you can get to a convention take as many machine embroidery classes as you can afford.

Take time to just practice.. There is a learning curve with it. It will take some time before you are comfortable with it.

Does anyone have any experience with a Husqvarna Viking Designer 1 Sewing machine?

December 3rd, 2012 3 comments

I’m wanting to buy a husqvarna Viking Designer 1 and I’ve heard really good things and a few bad things. I was wondering if there was anyone that has one and could give me some honest feedback?

There have been a number of machines called "Designer 1", "Designer 1+", "Designer 1 USB", so you might want to clarify what machine you’re thinking about. The current model is the Designer 1 USB.

Many of the people I know who do computerized embroidery have wound up preferring to have a second machine for stitching, so they can keep sewing while the embroidery machine is stitching out a design. That might be something you want to think about. I don’t do computerized embroidery (just hand or freehand machine embroidery), so I can’t really advise you much on this, except to suggest you might want to hop over to http://www.patternreview.com and read some machine reviews for yourself. You may need to join to read older reviews, but the basic membership is free and they don’t spam you.

My main machine is a 12+ year old Viking electronic, 30 stitches. I make almost all my famiy’s clothing, and it has performed nearly flawlessly over the years — and those flaws were my fault, not the machine’s.

How do I change the file language from PCS file to PES file for my sewing machine?

November 29th, 2012 2 comments

What types of programmes are out there and which is the best to buy? Is this what Buzz tool does?

Buzz Tools has more than one software program.

There is a free software download that I have used many times for conversion of machine embroidery formats.

For your embroidery machine, you can convert a PCS design to PES or any other format (except ART) by using Pulse Ambassador.

Open the design you want to convert and then and SAVE as "name of design" and choose the format, PES.

http://www.pulsemicro.com/ambassadordownload

Cheaper version of the Husqvarna Viking embroidery machine?

November 27th, 2012 2 comments

I’m looking for an embroidery machine with many of the same capabilities of the Husqvarna Viking Designer 1, but for a much cheaper price. Any suggestions?

Make a list of what you like about this machine and take it to a Brother or Babylock dealer and compare the features and the prices.

Ideally – you want a hoop area larger than 4"x 4" and USB connectivity.

The larger hoop will allow you to stitch out larger embroidery designs. Whatever the size hoop is the largest design size the embroidery machine will stitch out.

Some users think if they buy an additional hoop that is larger than what came with the machine, the machine will stitch larger designs. Not so. The embroidery machine is computerized for certain features and that cannot be changed.

USB connectivity can be either a cable that connects the embroidery machine and PC, or a removable flash drive. These are what you use to move design downloads from the PC to the embroidery machine.

You can get the Brother 400se (sewing and embroidery) at Walmart that has a larger hoop and cable connectivity for around $500.

You may want to buy from a dealer for assistance in using the machine and for service of the machine.

You do need to have a PC as 99.9% of software programs for machine embroidery require the Windows operating system.

You can begin a collection of designs from the many sites that offer free downloads.

Create a folder on the hard drive and name it Emb Downloads.

Download .pes formatted designs for Brother or Babylock.

Most downloads are zipped files and have to be opened or extracted and then saved to the folder you created.

What is your most beloved sewing-plus-embroidery machine yet?

November 27th, 2012 2 comments

My mother has always wanted one of those. She doesn’t have a business or anything but she likes making crafts at home–curtains, shirts, pillows, etc., and she’s quite advanced at sewing. What machine do you reccomend for her to get? She’s got a budget though, so nothing TOO pricey, please!

Does she have a sewing machine she likes currently? If so, I’d suggest she think about an embroidery only machine to supplement it. That way she can still sew while she’s waiting for the design to stitch out.

Or consider taking up free motion embroidery, which can be done on any straight stitch sewing machine…
here’s a simple sample: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tcy2dse68M and a more complex one:
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3833/video-manuels-free-motion-embroidery-technique
and some information on bobbin work, using heavier threads and embroidering "upside down":
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/5025/bobbin-work-when-threads-are-too-thick-for-the-needle

Suggested reading on free motion embroidery: Robbie & Tony Fanning’s Complete Book of Machine Embroidery, and any of the many editions of Singer Instructions for Art Embroidery (the originals were all done on straight stitch treadles, ca. 1910)

Then head to a sewing machine dealer and try some of the machines… and check the prices of supplies, too… if she’s on a tight budget, the supplies may be a significant factor in costs.

What is the best embroidery machine for a beginner?

November 25th, 2012 6 comments

My intention is to be able to embroider golf towels for memorial golf tournaments each year and possibly do shirts down the road if I find that it is not to difficult. Can someone please tell me if I am going in over my head here with even thinking about trying to do this? Please help me out here with some answers. Thank you…

Visit as many sewing machine dealers as you can and tell them your interests.

Machine embroidery is easy – the machine does all the work. All you need to do is follow the instructions and watch the results as the machine does it’s thing.

Ideally, you want an embroidery machine that has at least a 5×7 stitching area, USB direct connect or USB flash drive for sending designs to the machine that you have downloaded from the Internet to your PC.

Do not buy an embroidery machine that uses rewritable memory cards and card reader box only – they are becoming obsolete as they are not compatible with Vista 64.

Do not buy software from a dealer – you need to become comfortable with the machine first, and some software is less expensive online.

Embird is one that is very popular and can be downloaded as a free trial.

You will need to also purchase, embroidery thread, embroidery bobbin thread and stabilizer. A package of needles and small scissors will come with the machine.

See this site for tips and techniques for machine embroidery – http://www.emblibrary.com/EL/elprojects/holder.aspx?page=techniques

Forums that are helpful are http://www.sewforum.com and http://www.annthegran.com/

Making embroidery patterns for a sewing machine?

November 23rd, 2012 2 comments

Have a new Huskvarna SE sewing/embroidery machine. I would like to make patterns for it (stitch files is what the store calls them) so I can have my own cust. designs. How do I get started?

If you are referring to embroidery and not sewing, you will need digitizing software for machine embroidery.

Most of the software programs do auto digitizing which requires you to use clip art or your own designs in a format such as jpg. Even then, you may have to do some manual editing.

There are a few products that you can download for a trial – Designer’s Gallery (BabyLock) and Buzz Tools are a couple brands.

All digitizing software will save designs in the format of all embroidery machines. You do not need to purchase the brand offered by the same company as your EM.

There is another software – Stitch Era, that is free to download. It is also complex and not that easy to learn. The manual is over 200 pages and I have yet to get through it.

I use PE Design for digitizing and Designer’s Gallery for editing. PE was a gift and DG came with my BabyLock.