Free Embroidery Designs

I don’t know how to sew, but I am learning so I’m a beginner. I want to start designing handbags and am looking for a great beginner sewing machine for a good price (no more than 200 dollars) that will help me to start. Any suggestions?

Website links would be nice.

For most handbag fabrics, you’re looking for power, and I can’t think of a new $200 machine that will give that to you. You’d be far better off with a good used machine. Be sure, when you’re shopping, to bring samples of the sorts of materials you want to sew.

http://www.cet.com/~pennys/faq/smfaq.htm

What I want for beginners in sewing:

– a machine that doesn’t scare you
– a machine that isn’t balky (cheap new machines are often very
balky or need adjustments often and are rarely repairable —
just too frustrating to learn on!)
– very good straight stitch
– good zigzag (4-5 mm is fine, more than that is gravy)
– a method of making buttonholes that makes sense to you
– adjustable presser foot pressure (which helps some fabric
handling issues)
– accessory presser feet that don’t cost an arm and a leg
(machines that use a "short shank foot" typically handle
generic presser feet pretty well. Some brands of machines use
proprietary or very expensive presser feet)

If the budget stretches far enough:

– blindhem and stretch blindhem stitches
– triple zigzag (nice for elastic applications)
– a couple of decorative stitches (you won’t use them nearly as
much as you think)
– electronic machine because of the needle position control and
because the stepper motors give you full "punching force" at
slow sewing speeds — mechanical machines often will stall at
slow speeds.

Please go to the best sewing machine dealers around and ask them
to show you some machines in your price range, *especially* used
machines you can afford. You’ll get a far better machine buying
used than new, and a good dealer is worth their weight in sewing
machine needles when you get a machine problem — often they can
talk you through the problem over the phone. While you’re trying
things out, try a couple of machines (sewing only, not combo
sewing-embroidery) over your price limit, just so you can see
what the difference in stitch quality and ease of use might be.
You may find you want to go for the used Cadillac. Or you might
want the new basic Chevy. Might as well try both out.

Suggested reading: John Giordano’s The Sewing Machine Book
(especially for used machines), Carol Ahles’ Fine Machine Sewing
(especially the first and last few chapters) and Gale Grigg
Hazen’s Owner’s Guide to Sewing Machines, Sergers and Knitting
Machines. All of these are likely to be available at your public
library.

Used brands I’d particularly look for: Elna, Bernina,
Viking/Husqvarna, Pfaff, Singer (pre 1970), Juki, Toyota

New "bargain brand" I’d probably pick: Janome (who also does
Kenmore).

I want to start making my own clothes but I don’t want to buy a lousy sewing machine.

A used one. Here’s my standard advice for beginners:

Start with reading the following faq — my comments expand on it:
http://www.cet.com/~pennys/faq/smfaq.htm

—-
What I want for beginners in sewing:

– a machine that doesn’t scare you
– a machine that isn’t balky (cheap new machines are often very
balky or need adjustments often and are rarely repairable —
just too frustrating to learn on!)
– very good straight stitch
– good zigzag (4-5 mm is fine, more than that is gravy)
– a method of making buttonholes that makes sense to you
– adjustable presser foot pressure (which helps some fabric
handling issues)
– accessory presser feet that don’t cost an arm and a leg
(machines that use a "short shank foot" typically handle
generic presser feet pretty well. Some brands of machines use
proprietary or very expensive presser feet)

If the budget stretches far enough:

– blindhem and stretch blindhem stitches
– triple zigzag (nice for elastic applications)
– a couple of decorative stitches (you won’t use them nearly as
much as you think)
– electronic machine because of the needle position control and
because the stepper motors give you full "punching force" at
slow sewing speeds — mechanical machines often will stall at
slow speeds.

Please go to the best sewing machine dealers around and ask them
to show you some machines in your price range, *especially* used
machines you can afford. You’ll get a far better machine buying
used than new, and a good dealer is worth their weight in sewing
machine needles when you get a machine problem — often they can
talk you through the problem over the phone. While you’re trying
things out, try a couple of machines (sewing only, not combo
sewing-embroidery) over your price limit, just so you can see
what the difference in stitch quality and ease of use might be.
You may find you want to go for the used Cadillac. Or you might
want the new basic Chevy. Might as well try both out.

Suggested reading: John Giordano’s The Sewing Machine Book
(especially for used machines), Carol Ahles’ Fine Machine Sewing
(especially the first and last few chapters) and Gale Grigg
Hazen’s Owner’s Guide to Sewing Machines, Sergers and Knitting
Machines. All of these are likely to be available at your public
library.

Used brands I’d particularly look for: Elna, Bernina,
Viking/Husqvarna, Pfaff, Singer (pre 1970), Juki, Toyota

New "bargain brand" I’d probably pick: Janome (who also does
Kenmore).

I need something that wont cost an arm and a leg, thats relatively easy to use and can do decorative stitches as well as general day to day sewing. Any suggestions? Im okay with used or older machines but I would need to know where to buy them used. Thanks!

Take a look at Kate Dicey’s essay on choosing sewing machines at
http://www.katedicey.co.uk (and take a look around at her site…
there are a lot of nice little tutorials there!). The FAQ she
refers to is at http:// tinyurl. com /l5rzu6 now. (paste back together– yahoo is being strange)

What I want for beginners in sewing:

– a machine that doesn’t scare you

– a machine that isn’t balky (cheap new machines are often very
balky or need adjustments often and are rarely repairable — just
too frustrating to learn on!)

– very good straight stitch

– good zigzag (4-5 mm is fine, more than that is gravy)

– a method of making buttonholes that makes sense to you

– adjustable presser foot pressure (which helps some fabric
handling issues)

– accessory presser feet that don’t cost an arm and a leg
(machines that use a "short shank foot" typically handle generic
presser feet pretty well. Some brands of machines use proprietary
or very expensive presser feet)

If the budget stretches far enough:

– blindhem and stretch blindhem stitches

– triple zigzag (nice for elastic applications)

– a couple of decorative stitches (you won’t use them nearly as
much as you think) (and you can build up some interesting decorative bands from the common utility stitches), as well as make them look different with bobbin work:
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/5025/bobbin-work-when-threads-are-too-thick-for-the-needle
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4978/crazy-patchwork-by-machine

– electronic machine because of the needle position control and
because the stepper motors give you full "punching force" at
slow sewing speeds — mechanical machines often will stall at
slow speeds.

Please go to the best sewing machine dealers around and ask them
to show you some machines in your price range, *especially* used
machines you can afford. You’ll get a far better machine at a
specific price buying used than new and a good dealer is worth
their weight in sewing machine needles when you get a machine
problem — often they can talk you through the problem over the
phone. While you’re trying things out, try a couple of machines
(sewing only, not combo sewing-embroidery) over your price limit,
just so you can see what the difference in stitch quality and
ease of use might be. You may find you want to go for the used
Cadillac. Or you might want the new basic Chevy. Might as well
try both out.

Suggested reading: John Giordano’s The Sewing Machine Book
(especially for used machines), Carol Ahles’ Fine Machine Sewing
(especially the first and last few chapters) and Gale Grigg
Hazen’s Owner’s Guide to Sewing Machines, Sergers and Knitting
Machines. All of these are likely to be available at your public
library.

Used brands I’d particularly look for: Elna, Bernina,
Viking/Husqvarna, Pfaff, Singer (pre 1970), Juki, Toyota

New "bargain brand" I’d probably pick, if new, decent and budget
was my choice: Janome (who also does Kenmore).

I am someone who can’t even sew a button. I am a total beginner, but I’d like to learn how to embroider and something about crewel really appeals to me. I know they sell kits at craft stores. What would I need to make sure the kits have? In other words, what would I need to begin? I’m scared I will go into Michael’s and spend 4x more than I need to because I don’t know what to get. Thanks!

Crewel is surface embroidery with wool on linen — it’s fun, but there are some texture issues for some people, as well as expense. Most of us who embroider started with cotton floss (DMC and Anchor are good brands) on cotton fabric. See my answer to: http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20101122123123AAk0Aft

If you want to stick with crewel, you’ll want a beginners kit and a hoop — 6" is a good size for most women’s hands — when you get really good you can move to stretchers. Or you may find that you prefer to work without a hoop — some of us are crazy that way. <g> I’d also buy an extra pack of assorted size embroidery/crewel needles, about $1 at Walmart, probably under $2 most other places.

If you want to do embroidery with cotton floss, pick up some colors of floss that you like, a packet of embroidery/crewel needles, and a 6" or so embroidery hoop — the ones I like for beginners look like this: http://www.amazon.com/Susan-Bates-Hoop-La-Embroidery-Hoops/dp/B000GBO9M8 or http://www.beverlys.com/plastic-embroidery-hoop-5.html You’ll also need a pair of scissors or a nail clipper to cut threads (why, yes, I’ve embroidered on airplanes, why do you ask??? <g>)

The book I learned most of my first crewel embroidery stitches from, and still a very good one, is Erica Wilson’s Embroidery Book: http://www.worldcat.org/title/erica-wilsons-embroidery-book/oclc/657147/editions?editionsView=true&referer=br and Erica Wilson’s Fun with Crewel Embroidery: http://www.worldcat.org/title/fun-with-crewel-embroidery/oclc/567395&referer=brief_results — check your local library, they’re likely on the shelves.

Step-by-step instructions in the art of shadow work embroidery.

Full DVD available at http://bit.ly/fdVTPF

Duration : 0:6:59

Read more…

Haven’t sewed anything since junior high and totally have no recollection of anything including threading a bobbin. HELP!!! I want to start off with a machine that is easy to use and cheap. Just in case I mess it up it’s not a lot of expense out of my pocket.

http://www.cet.com/~pennys/faq/smfaq.htm

What I want for beginners in sewing:

– a machine that doesn’t scare you
– a machine that isn’t balky (cheap new machines are often very
balky or need adjustments often and are rarely repairable —
just too frustrating to learn on!)
– very good straight stitch
– good zigzag (4-5 mm is fine, more than that is gravy)
– a method of making buttonholes that makes sense to you
– adjustable presser foot pressure (which helps some fabric
handling issues)
– accessory presser feet that don’t cost an arm and a leg
(machines that use a "short shank foot" typically handle
generic presser feet pretty well. Some brands of machines use
proprietary or very expensive presser feet)

If the budget stretches far enough:

– blindhem and stretch blindhem stitches
– triple zigzag (nice for elastic applications)
– a couple of decorative stitches (you won’t use them nearly as
much as you think)
– electronic machine because of the needle position control and
because the stepper motors give you full "punching force" at
slow sewing speeds — mechanical machines often will stall at
slow speeds.

Please go to the best sewing machine dealers around and ask them
to show you some machines in your price range, *especially* used
machines you can afford. You’ll get a far better machine buying
used than new, and a good dealer is worth their weight in sewing
machine needles when you get a machine problem — often they can
talk you through the problem over the phone. While you’re trying
things out, try a couple of machines (sewing only, not combo
sewing-embroidery) over your price limit, just so you can see
what the difference in stitch quality and ease of use might be.
You may find you want to go for the used Cadillac. Or you might
want the new basic Chevy. Might as well try both out.

Suggested reading: John Giordano’s The Sewing Machine Book
(especially for used machines), Carol Ahles’ Fine Machine Sewing
(especially the first and last few chapters) and Gale Grigg
Hazen’s Owner’s Guide to Sewing Machines, Sergers and Knitting
Machines. All of these are likely to be available at your public
library.

Used brands I’d particularly look for: Elna, Bernina,
Viking/Husqvarna, Pfaff, Singer (pre 1970), Juki, Toyota

New "bargain brand" I’d probably pick, if new was my choice:
Janome (who also does Kenmore).

I would like to start doing needlework projects but am not sure where to start.
I am thinking about asking for some for Christmas is why! I used to do a needlepoint but I forget what it was, the fabric was the same colors as the yarn.

Alice and I started out the same, with stamped cross stitch. From there, I learned other embroidery stitches, did crewel as well as thread embroidery, and needlepoint. I can do counted cross stitch, but another that I choose not to do.
My mother latched rugs, that was as close as I cared to get to that. Just was not for me.
I sew, I bead on material, I make jewelry.

I would recommend stamped cross stitch, it is easy to learn, and as you can see, can lead to other kinds of stitching. And it is generally inexpensive to learn and do. I have some pillow cases in the works right now, they and the thread cost me way less than $10, I had the needles and hoops.

Lots of sites online, Michael’s and Hobby Lobby both sell it in kits, and some individual pieces like baby bibs. My local quilt shop sells lots of cotton with designs for embroidery stamped on it, some are copies of antique designs.

And from there, you can make quilt blocks and quilts, make gingham aprons with cross stitch designs, learn to embellish clothes and accessories, learn to bead fabric [it is easy].

I have a stitching book, I think it is from Reader’s Digest, that my Mom bought me, I have learned several stitches out of it. Visit your local library and book store to see what you might be interested in. And of course, ask for the book for Xmas, too!

My daughter has tested twice, both in 1st grade and 2nd and passed both times for the gifted and talented program at a school in another state. The school here doesn’t have a GT program to offer her. She’s getting really bored in school and getting in trouble for talking etc… how can I get her new school to start a GT program so she is more challenged? Or is there anything I can do at home to help her?

I speak from experience as a former "gifted child" as well as being the aunt of an extremely bright 3rd grader and the mother of an extremely bright preschooler. Based on my experience, I have to say, it will be nearly impossible to get your gifted daughter’s school to provide additional services for her.

This country’s public schools are dancing as fast as they can to serve the average kids and the kids who are falling behind, and unfortunately the pervasive attitude (in most school districts — not EVERY school district) is that the gifted kids will "take care of themselves."

Of course, this is not the case — gifted kids need just as much direction and guidance as any other kids, and entirely too many of them get bored, which can lead to destructive habits and attitudes regarding school and the work ethic.

Fortunately, there’s plenty of stuff you can do with her at home to enrich her learning and enjoyment.

Check out www.hoagiesgifted.org and www.nacg.org for resources. You may also find that your home state has programs for gifted children. But be aware that anything sponsored by the state or federal government is likely to be limited in scope. Nurturing our brightest young minds is just not something our government is particularly good at.

You could also check out homeschooling websites like www.homeschooldiner.com. Homeschooling websites can give you dozens of links to free educational materials that are available on the web, in every subject you can think of. You don’t have to be a homeschooler to use these materials. It’s amazing what you can find for free on the web.

Also, check your local paper and community bulletin boards for information about local museums, nature centers, theaters, farms, zoos, etc. You might be surprised at the kinds of resources that you have nearby. Enrichment doesn’t have to cost a lot, either. Many museums offer a free or reduced-entry-fee day on a regular basis. Libraries and churches often offer concerts of many different types of music for little or no cost.

Educational enrichment doesn’t have to mean "academics" all the time — check the Parks & Rec departments in your town and neighboring towns to see what kind of sports classes or teams they offer. If you like crafts, you and she could learn a new crafting skill together, like embroidery or knitting or wood carving.

Even doing everyday stuff together, like cooking, will teach life skills, math, following directions, reading comprehension. You just have to know how to present it.

And of course, your town library is invaluable. Not only does it provide free books, music, and movies, but it’s a meeting place for your community. I find out about lots of cool — often free-of-charge — stuff to do with my daughter by hanging out at the library on a regular basis.

Good luck!

Inmod.com revolutionizes home decor with their Design Studio, which allows you to design your own modern bedding, pillows and furniture.

To begin designing your own modern duvet cover, browse through our selection of patterns, or select one from our various pattern themes, which range from organic to geometric, from retro to pop culture. Or just choose from our featured, most popular designs, created by our in-house designers. Each pattern may be embroidered on your choice of over two dozen plush fabrics, including cotton, linen and a luxurious silk dupioni. Select your favorite fabric type and color.

Once you’ve selected your fabric color, the real magic begins. The Inmod Design Studio allows you to choose each pattern detail and customize them individually. Simply click on a particular design element and choose a color from our extensive embroidery swatch library below. The sky is the limit, and we’ve never sold the same duvet cover twice. Switch to our room view, to preview your design in a simulated bedroom environment. Render the details of this environment with simple point & click to recreate the look of your own living space. Then fine-tune the details of your bedding creation to match your décor.

Once you’re happy with your design, choose from our available duvet sizes, which include “Queen, Super Queen, King & Super King. Complete the look with a set of solid color shams, which will match the color of your duvet cover. Take your look a step further, and compliment your bedding design with a matching accent pillow, featuring the same fabric and pattern.

Duration : 0:2:38

Read more…

Include a link to a picture so I can see what it looks like. I would also like a link to a free web sites with instructions on how to make friendship bracelets.

DMC embroidery floss is used to make braided bracelets. Wal Mart, Joann fabrics and any craft store will carry it. Your library should have how to books